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Get the BLEEP off!

I have been riding waves for 36 years now. In that time you have to learn to adapt to the changing psychology of wave riding. I know all of you guys who don't surf think we are all out there just having fun and games. But the truth is that surfing on a public beach, a popular surfing beach that is, takes cunning and conniving. It is not too much different from driving a vehicle around road raging assholes, or shopping on Black Friday. It is that crowd psychology of "me first". And every wave location has it's moods that you have to figure out to gain psychological advantage over the other surfers out there. It is the unspoken shittiness about our sport. We sit in the water, and notice the guy who hasn't been able to paddle into a wave and sit next to him. Some surfers catch a set wave and then get greedy and go back and paddle to the inside of everyone, every single time. We all try to out-paddle each-other to gain position. It is a battle that many people have never understood. As we get older we get better at patience and knowing where to sit to catch the waves, instead of the constant battles. But every once in a while we end up losing our patience.

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